The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South

In this chapter, Twitty chronicles his search for his genetic history, and he identifies several problems with genetic testing. The thousands of ethnic groups in Africa make it difficult to identify specific regions of heritage, and there are few samples for many of these populations. He emphasizes the importance of trying multiple tests and comparing results for a more accurate picture. His first genetic test revealed that he was 70% West African, 28% British Isles, and 2% undetermined. The organization African Ancestry offered him more specific results. His maternal ancestry led to the Mende people of Sierra Leone, and his paternal ancestry traced to Ghana. Nigeria and Senegal also contributed to Twitty’s genetic heritage, while his European lineage came from Scandinavia, Iberia, and Ireland.

Twitty is eager to learn about the food of his ancestors. Before his “Southern Discomfort Tour,” he viewed soul food as the sad outcome of the assimilation of Black people in the United States. Now, understanding the complexity and beauty of food influenced by diverse palates with unique and rich cultures contributes to his understanding of himself.