The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South

 “The Old South is a place where food tells me who I am. The Old South is where food tells me where we have been. The Old South is where the story of our food might just tell America where it’s going.”

As Michael Twitty establishes the role of the South in his culinary and personal identity, he demonstrates that for him food and identity are intrinsically intertwined. Although this connection looks back to The Impact of Slavery on American Foodways, for Twitty, African American food may be a roadmap for the future.

“My entire cooking life has been about memory. It’s my most indispensable ingredient, so wherever I find it, I hoard it.”

Memory plays an important role throughout Twitty’s work. As he explores his heritage through research, genetic testing, and oral traditions, he cycles in and out of memories. Each aspect of Southern culture and history that he explores is directly connected to a personal or a family memory.

“Three centuries were explained to me with books full of pictures opened wide, and my hands felt around in the darkness of my imagination for the women and men who felt completely beyond my reach.”

This quotation is related to the broader theme of Identity and Self-Discovery. As a young boy, Twitty did not know what slavery was; nor did he connect to Black food or culture. As his eyes began to open to the history of his ancestors, he fell in love with learning about his history and identity.